Burning Safely
Fuels
The Fuel Information comes from North American Fire Arts Association's (NAFAA) website, a great source of Fire Performance related information, and has been rewritten, in part, to relate to beginners. Check out NAFAA.org to learn more
Common Names: White Gas, Naphthalene, Mineral Spirits
Naphtha has the lowest boiling point of all the petrols, which gives it the highest vapor pressure. Without a vapor-seal container Naphtha it will produce flammable vapors, though this vapors will quickly disperse if well ventilated.
Naphtha is very easy to light, burns on many surfaces, will evaporate quickly (in about 15 minutes) from most surfaces, and must be very carefully contained at all times. Unfortunately, it can contain a high percentage of aromatics, be smoky, toxic and carcinogenic. Some naphtha-based fuels (Coleman) have a somewhat reduced aromatic content, but many are naturally high or augmented in aromatics. Avoid indoor use unless you have a very specific knowledge and understanding of the aromatic content of your fuel.
Never trust this fuel in open containers. Make sure your fuel containers has a vapor-seal lid. Make sure your fuel containers are closed when fire is around, don't allow smoking near any large quantity of Naphtha, and try to keep your fuel station well ventilated.
On the other hand, this fuel is one of the few that will burn on the ground after spin-out tricks, and it produces the biggest, brightest flames possible. It's also hard to extinguish while spinning allowing props to be spun faster. Camping fuel sources of naphtha tend to be fairly consistent in quality within a given brand, but may vary greatly between different brands.
Naphtha has the lowest boiling point of all the petrols, which gives it the highest vapor pressure. Without a vapor-seal container Naphtha it will produce flammable vapors, though this vapors will quickly disperse if well ventilated.
Naphtha is very easy to light, burns on many surfaces, will evaporate quickly (in about 15 minutes) from most surfaces, and must be very carefully contained at all times. Unfortunately, it can contain a high percentage of aromatics, be smoky, toxic and carcinogenic. Some naphtha-based fuels (Coleman) have a somewhat reduced aromatic content, but many are naturally high or augmented in aromatics. Avoid indoor use unless you have a very specific knowledge and understanding of the aromatic content of your fuel.
Never trust this fuel in open containers. Make sure your fuel containers has a vapor-seal lid. Make sure your fuel containers are closed when fire is around, don't allow smoking near any large quantity of Naphtha, and try to keep your fuel station well ventilated.
On the other hand, this fuel is one of the few that will burn on the ground after spin-out tricks, and it produces the biggest, brightest flames possible. It's also hard to extinguish while spinning allowing props to be spun faster. Camping fuel sources of naphtha tend to be fairly consistent in quality within a given brand, but may vary greatly between different brands.
Lamp Oil has a very high flash point (200F+/93C+), and a very low vapor pressure. Lamp oil can often be left in the open, even in direct sunlight, without it producing flammable vapors.
Because of it's stable at room temp, Lamp oil is often very hard to light. To burn it requires a high surface area, such a wick. When applied to a high surface area surface - such as cotton balls, wood shavings, fur, etc - it begins to produce vapors almost immediately. These vapors stay in a form that is readily ignitable from spark or intense heat.
For Performers, Lamp oil is one of the preferred fuels. It's accepted by even the most restrictive fire departments. Though it burns with a lot of smoke, it can be found in forms that burn without a lot of toxins (Lamplighter Farms Ultrapure), and all forms produce a very long show. Its high flash point means that it usually won't burn on your body, even if you hit yourself with a freshly lit wick. Highly purified forms can also be obtained (food-grade, medical, pharmaceutical) that are safe for consumption, making them the ideal fuel for fire breathing (unless inhaled). The biggest danger with lamp oil is in the eventual complacency of the performer.
Because of it's stable at room temp, Lamp oil is often very hard to light. To burn it requires a high surface area, such a wick. When applied to a high surface area surface - such as cotton balls, wood shavings, fur, etc - it begins to produce vapors almost immediately. These vapors stay in a form that is readily ignitable from spark or intense heat.
For Performers, Lamp oil is one of the preferred fuels. It's accepted by even the most restrictive fire departments. Though it burns with a lot of smoke, it can be found in forms that burn without a lot of toxins (Lamplighter Farms Ultrapure), and all forms produce a very long show. Its high flash point means that it usually won't burn on your body, even if you hit yourself with a freshly lit wick. Highly purified forms can also be obtained (food-grade, medical, pharmaceutical) that are safe for consumption, making them the ideal fuel for fire breathing (unless inhaled). The biggest danger with lamp oil is in the eventual complacency of the performer.
Kerosene has the broadest legal definition. Which makes it very difficult to know exactly what your getting you purchase "Kerosene". Kerosene is often mixed with other products that are left over from primary fuel productions generally making it the dirtiest and the least consistent fuel.
Generally, Kerosene has a "Class 2" flash point range, between 100F (38C) and 140F (60C). Making it often easier to light than lamp oil, but harder than Naptha.
Kerosene is favored by many fire spinners. Its burn time is close to that of lamp oil, but easier to light, if you have the right fuel. Often, this type of fuel is simulated by mixing lamp oil and white gas.
Generally, Kerosene has a "Class 2" flash point range, between 100F (38C) and 140F (60C). Making it often easier to light than lamp oil, but harder than Naptha.
Kerosene is favored by many fire spinners. Its burn time is close to that of lamp oil, but easier to light, if you have the right fuel. Often, this type of fuel is simulated by mixing lamp oil and white gas.
Safety Gear
The Safety Gear Information comes from North American Fire Arts Association's (NAFAA) website, a great source of Fire Performance related information, and has been rewritten to relate to beginners. Check out NAFAA.org to learn more
Towels are an important safety tool to have around when burning. Because the source of the fire is going to be some fuel, the best way to put it out is to smother it. You have several choices when you choosing a safety towel, these being a damp towel, Duvetyn or a Welder's Blanket.
A damp towel probably the all round best choice due to several reasons. First you don't need to go out and buy something new, just find an old towel lying around, just soak it in water then throughly wring it out. Second if you are putting out flames on someone the towel will easily form to their body, creating a seal and putting out the flames. Lastly because it is damp it will cool the burned skin, a good first step in treating burns. However you do want to watch out for mold growing on your towel if you let it stay damp for long periods of time.
Duvetyn towels are towels that have been chemically treated, usually on one side, to be fire-resistant. While they put flames out very well, they can be heavier and less easily formed to the body. Which makes it harder to create a seal when putting out flames on someone's body. Since it is chemically treated you can't wet them else the towel will lose its fire-resistant properties.
Welder's blankets are made from Fiberglass and are similar to Duvetyn in its use. Make sure to get a blanket that is not so thick as to make it harder to create a seal around the fire.
A damp towel probably the all round best choice due to several reasons. First you don't need to go out and buy something new, just find an old towel lying around, just soak it in water then throughly wring it out. Second if you are putting out flames on someone the towel will easily form to their body, creating a seal and putting out the flames. Lastly because it is damp it will cool the burned skin, a good first step in treating burns. However you do want to watch out for mold growing on your towel if you let it stay damp for long periods of time.
Duvetyn towels are towels that have been chemically treated, usually on one side, to be fire-resistant. While they put flames out very well, they can be heavier and less easily formed to the body. Which makes it harder to create a seal when putting out flames on someone's body. Since it is chemically treated you can't wet them else the towel will lose its fire-resistant properties.
Welder's blankets are made from Fiberglass and are similar to Duvetyn in its use. Make sure to get a blanket that is not so thick as to make it harder to create a seal around the fire.
Almost every fire prop requires being dipped in fuel which means having an open container of full ready. This can pose a safety hazard so you want to be aware of the dangers your container pose. There is no "correct" container for dipping you prop in, but there are better ones. A good video to watch is here
Plastic
Glass
Metal
Plastic
- Because it can melt, having an open burn in the container or even a lit prop too close can result in a fuel spill
Glass
- It won't melt and is generally a sturdy container. However if it is hit, it can break resulting in a fuel spill along with shards of glass that could injure those trying to clean the spill.
Metal
- Heat and impact resistant. Easily capped in case of an open burn in the container, especially if has a vapor seal lid. An empty paint does this job well